Objects Database

'Dead man'

Accession Number

620.2008.1

Object Name

'Dead man'

Created

04/12/2008

Creator

Hermione Cooper

Accession Date

04/12/2008

Brief Description

'Dead man' plate with nylon rope attached through hole in middle. Metal strip at top with five small holes.

Materials

metal, nylon

Dimensions

26(l) x 20.5(w)cms

Number Of Objects

1

Colour

silver

Provenance

Dead Man anchors have been used for centuries to hold things in place, or for attaching some kind of pulley system to move things around. Although the name would seem to imply that some helpless corpse was used at some point in history, we haven't found any documentary evidence of that, the more likely system would be to bury logs or stones in soil, sand or snow with a rope or cable wrapped around it for attachment. It's thought that the first dead man anchors for mountaineering derived from dog sled drivers who used sheets of wood to anchor their dog teams in the snow. Scottish climber, John Cunningham worked for the British Antarctic Survey in the 1950's and we know that he experimented with metal and aluminium anchors in the Cairngorms on his return, though tradition has it that Denny Moorehouse of Clog Equipment was one of the first to produce a commercially available dead man back in the 1970's.
This one is a classic, very well made version of a home made dead man from the 1960's. A bakelike strip has been riveted onto the top to protect the aluminium when it was hammered into the snow. The piece of No 4 Viking Nylon rope made for a good strong attachment point. This is another of many items that Mick Tighe acquired from somewhere!
We had an interesting note from Mountain Guide, Kathy Murphy:-
"On Gasherburn II in 1989 we made our own version out of the bottom of plastic barrels threaded with thin cord - they were somewhat rounder and larger than the deadman - understandably so - we called them deadwomen !!! ( they were also more difficult to place !)

Acquisition Date

04/12/2008

Condition Check Date

28/04/2009

Rules

Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007

Modified

28/04/2009

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