The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
828.2010.1
DMM Betterbrake
15/04/2010
Hermione Cooper
15/04/2010
Circular metal plate with two large holes and two smaller holes. Cord looped through one of the smaller holes.
aluminium alloy
6(diameter) x 1.5(d)cms
1
On plate inscription reads " 9MM OR 11MM ROPE BETTERBRAKE DMM WALES"
silver
Denny Moorhouse Mountaineering - DMM
Wales
For over a hundred years mountaineers had been wrapping ropes around their waists, hitching them over their shoulders and twisting them around their bodies to get some friction in order to hold a fall, until the late 1960's when a German climber called Franz Sticht came along and created the 'Sticht Plate' which was basically a metal or aluminium plate that created the friction when used in conjunction with a karabiner. The following 50 years or so have seen hundreds of 'refinements' of Franz Sticht's original design with the two main objectives being to create a device that can deal with a variety of rope diameters and one that can also be safely used as an abseil device.
More recently there has been a request for 'hands free' devices which, when rigged correctly, will 'jam' should a fall occur, without any input from the belayer. Lightness and simplicity has also been a criteria.
NB A bit like vacuum cleaners have come to be known as 'Hoovers' whatever their make or model, belay devices of all makes, shapes and sizes are often called 'sticht plates'
Denny Moorhouse mountaineering - DMM - were one of the first to create a belay plate that could deal with both 9mm and 11mm ropes, though they did have a tendency to jam up against the karabiner when belaying and certainly when loaded. This one came from the store of Mick Tighe's Mountain Guiding Company - Nevis Guides.
15/04/2010
15/04/2010
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007
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