Objects Database

DMM Betterbrake

Accession Number

828.2010.1

Object Name

DMM Betterbrake

Created

15/04/2010

Creator

Hermione Cooper

Accession Date

15/04/2010

Brief Description

Circular metal plate with two large holes and two smaller holes. Cord looped through one of the smaller holes.

Materials

aluminium alloy

Dimensions

6(diameter) x 1.5(d)cms

Number Of Objects

1

Inscription Description

On plate inscription reads " 9MM OR 11MM ROPE BETTERBRAKE DMM WALES"

Colour

silver

Maker

Denny Moorhouse Mountaineering - DMM

Object Production Place

Wales

Provenance

For over a hundred years mountaineers had been wrapping ropes around their waists, hitching them over their shoulders and twisting them around their bodies to get some friction in order to hold a fall, until the late 1960's when a German climber called Franz Sticht came along and created the 'Sticht Plate' which was basically a metal or aluminium plate that created the friction when used in conjunction with a karabiner. The following 50 years or so have seen hundreds of 'refinements' of Franz Sticht's original design with the two main objectives being to create a device that can deal with a variety of rope diameters and one that can also be safely used as an abseil device.
More recently there has been a request for 'hands free' devices which, when rigged correctly, will 'jam' should a fall occur, without any input from the belayer. Lightness and simplicity has also been a criteria.
NB A bit like vacuum cleaners have come to be known as 'Hoovers' whatever their make or model, belay devices of all makes, shapes and sizes are often called 'sticht plates'
Denny Moorhouse mountaineering - DMM - were one of the first to create a belay plate that could deal with both 9mm and 11mm ropes, though they did have a tendency to jam up against the karabiner when belaying and certainly when loaded. This one came from the store of Mick Tighe's Mountain Guiding Company - Nevis Guides.

Acquisition Date

15/04/2010

Condition Check Date

15/04/2010

Rules

Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007

Modified

15/04/2010

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