Objects Database

Chouinard carabiner

Accession Number


Object Name

Chouinard carabiner




Hermione Cooper

Accession Date


Brief Description

Oval shaped carabiner with snap link




119l) x 5.5(w) x 1(h) cms

Number Of Objects


Inscription Description

"4000LBS" on one side and " CHOUINARD USA" on the other.





Object Production Place



We've got lots of karabiners in the collection, but only a couple of Chouinards.. They are a bit of a rarety in the UK and we suspect there aren't many left in the USA where they were made.
Yvon Chouinard wrote about them in his 1978 equipment catalogue.

"Over the last 20 years the Chouinard Carabiner has gone through five major design changes. Its shape is slightly more oval than the D/Pear shape of the earlier Chouinard models, having been designed for an optimum combination of handling characteristics plus the high strength-to-weight ratio necessitated by modern clean climbing standards. The smooth bottom curve still minimizes shifting when two etrier 'biners are clipped in. The internal shape has been altered so that this carabiner works better than older models in carabiner brakes. Another advantage of the Chouinard Carabiner is the modified D shape which lets you know at a glance or by feel on which side the gate opens (a big plus on desperate 5 10's). The gate action is smooth and has the correct stiffness for safe, efficient climbing. The gate opens under body weight and allows plenty of room for two etrier 'biners and a fat 11mm rope to be clipped in (thus permitting the most efficient aid climbing sequence to be used — not to mention the convenience in setting up hanging belays, hauling, and rescue work). The stainless steel gate rivets are not just press-fitted, but securely peened over for reliability and extra strength when the gate is under a side load as in a carabiner brake. The latch rivet is now flush peened so you can slip over any brake bar, even those specifically made for oval carabiners. The gate latch opening is shaped so that under a load of over 100 kg., the gate locks shut. Even so, the gate open strength of 1,100 kg., is an extra safeguard. The gate latch width has now been made narrower to make it easier to clip into small eyed bolt hangers and awkwardly placed pitons. Minimum strength: 2,200 kg. Weight: 2.4 oz. Price: $4.00"

Acquisition Date


Condition Check Date



Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007



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