The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
1174.2014.1(a-f)
Shortened pitons
05/11/2014
Hermione Cooper
05/11/2014
Six shortened pitons on a karabiner.
steel
5.5 up to 9.5(l) cms(l)
6
a- a diamond with a "C" inside
b - a diamond with "C" inside and "B D USA"
c- - a diamond with "C" inside and "USA"
d - a diamond with "C" inside and "BD USA"
e - "CLOG"
f - "CASSIN ITALY"
silver
Chouinard, Cassin, Clog
USA, Italy, Wales
Artificial climbing is the technique of climbing a rock face using artificial aids such as pitons, bolts, chocks and wedges. Climbers also use a small rope ladder known as an etrier, various types of which you will find elsewhere in the collection.
Artificial climbing comes with a vast array of fancy words; pitons are called 'pegs', banging them in is often called 'nailing' and the cracks that they are banged into can be deep, shallow or even 'blind'. A blind crack is a very shallow one and as a consequence a very short piton is required to fit it. Some pitons are made short for that very purpose, but artificial climbers often cut down ordinary 'pegs' to make shorter versions - a selection of which we are delighted to have here in the collection.
Legendary Scottish climber, Allen Fyffe, kindly donated this bunch of pitons to the collection. He'd cut them down himself prior to a climbing trip to Yosemite Valley in California where there's lots of nailing to be done on the huge granite walls.
Interestingly, apart from one Clog and one Cassin the other four pitons are Chouinards. Yvon Chouinard was an American climber who pioneered lots of new climbs in Yosemite while developing artificial climbing techniques and the pitons required for the job.
Donated by Allen Fyffe
05/11/2014
05/11/2014
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007
05/11/2014