The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
1326.2016.1
Chouinard Hexentrics (Drilled, on tape)
22/06/2016
Hermione Cooper
22/06/2016
Set of 5 Chouinard Hexentrics on tapes.
aluminium alloy
4 x 2.6, 4.5 x 3.2, 5.5 x 4, 6.5 x 4.7 and 7.5 x 5.5 cms
5
b- "HEXENTRIC 7" with chouinard diamond and "USA"
c - "INTERALP HEXENTRIC with chouinard diamond and "USA"
D - "INTERALP HEXENTRIC with chouinard diamond and "USA"
silver
Chouinard
USA
Back in the 1950's and 60's rock climbers used nuts, - as in nuts and bolts - threaded on a piece of rock, to make anchors in the rock, so when the first commercially produced anchors came along in the 1970's they used the hexagonal shape of a nut, albeit made from aluminium rather than steel. They also adopted the word 'nut' for this type of protection. Fifty years later climbers still refer to the gear hanging from their climbing harnesses as 'nuts'.
In 1973, a Swedish climber, Tomas Carlstrom, decided to alter the angles of a hexagon a little, to produce what became known as a hexentric. He then teamed up with the American equipment manufacturer, Yvon Chouinard, who patented the idea in 1974.
The early versions were a little on the heavy side, so Chouinard drilled holes to reduce the weight. He also produced a paper template so folk could drill their own holes.
The lovely little set we have here in the collection have been drilled, but not with a template by the looks of it. They are also on tape rather than on rope which is unusual since the tape appears to be made by Troll, a U.K. based firm, which makes us wonder if Chouinard and Troll had a deal going back in the 70's.
Mick Tighe bought this set on the Internet for a few pounds in 2016.
Donated by Mick Tighe
22/06/2016
22/06/2016
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007
22/06/2016