Our good friend and mountain guide, Nick Kekus, kindly donated this fabulous down suit and here’s what he had to say about it:-
”I used this down suit on four Everest trips. The design was a refinement from the original Mountain Equipment suits made by Pete Hutchinson for the Everest SW face trips in the 1970’s and Bonnington, Boardman, Tasker NE ridge exp in 1982.
I think the main improvements were, more down, lightweight pertex shell and the suspension straps inside allowed you to open the front zip without it sagging. The suits people use these days are far more sophisticated, warmer and probably lighter.
I used the down suit twice to Everest North East ridge in 1985 and 1987. Rick Allan and Doug Scott got to our high point on the first pinnacle in awful weather. No one got as far as Pete and Joe until Russell Brice and Harry Taylor climbed the last remaining section of the ridge in 1988.
I used the suit on a further two occasions on the south col route, climbing to the summit in 1997, helping 3 Icelanders to become the first from their country to summit Everest. In 1999 I was also on the south col route guiding with OTT expeditions. I turned back at the Hilary Step to help members of our team who submitted get down.
After an impressive ‘career’ in the Himalyas, Nick has decided it’s a good time to call it quits while still in one piece so donating his suit is a cathartic experience and part insurance to stop him going out there again!