DMM Betterbrake

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The body belay rendered obsolete by belay plates. Print from a handbook for Climbing Instructors in the Royal Marines
Diagram from ‘Rock Climbing’ 1979
DMM Betterbrake
DMM Betterbrake
Description
Circular metal plate with two large holes and two smaller holes. Cord looped through one of the smaller holes.
Inscription description
On plate inscription reads ” 9MM OR 11MM ROPE BETTERBRAKE DMM WALES”
Acquisition Method:
Number of Objects:
1
Related Items:
Provenance:
For over a hundred years mountaineers had been wrapping ropes around their waists, hitching them over their shoulders and twisting them around their bodies to get some friction in order to hold a fall, until the late 1960’s when a German climber called Franz Sticht came along and created the ‘Sticht Plate’ which was basically a metal or aluminium plate that created the friction when used in conjunction with a karabiner. The following 50 years or so have seen hundreds of ‘refinements’ of Franz Sticht’s original design with the two main objectives being to create a device that can deal with a variety of rope diameters and one that can also be safely used as an abseil device. More recently there has been a request for ‘hands free’ devices which, when rigged correctly, will ‘jam’ should a fall occur, without any input from the belayer. Lightness and simplicity has also been a criteria. NB A bit like vacuum cleaners have come to be known as ‘Hoovers’ whatever their make or model, belay devices of all makes, shapes and sizes are often called ‘sticht plates’ Denny Moorhouse mountaineering – DMM – were one of the first to create a belay plate that could deal with both 9mm and 11mm ropes, though they did have a tendency to jam up against the karabiner when belaying and certainly when loaded. This one came from the store of Mick Tighe’s Mountain Guiding Company – Nevis Guides.
Object Production
Production Place:
Wales
Materials:
aluminium alloy
Maker:
Denny Moorhouse Mountaineering – DMM
Colour:
silver
Dimensions:
6(diameter) x 1.5(d)cms
Object Condition:
Condition Date Check:
15/04/2010
Administration
Accession Number:
828.2010.1
Creator:
Hermione Cooper
Accession Date:
15/04/2010
ID:
1
Category:
Location
Location:
Bohuntin
Current Location
Rules:
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007