Among many other things, Klaus Schwartz is the only German National to become a British Mountain Guide. He has spent most of his life in the UK, a good deal of it in the North West Highlands of Scotland where, in the 1960s, he pioneered many first ascents of rock climbs on the Pol Dubh crags of Glen Nevis, subsequently writing a guidebook to the area along with his good pal Blyth Wright.

It was customary back then to use pitons for protection on rock climbs, they could also be used to pull on for aid. The piton we have here in the collection was used as aid by Klaus on one of his climbs, which was reflected in his guidebook. Having read the guidebook, a pal of Klaus’s went and did the climb without aid, removed the piton and returned it to the owner. Klaus then gave it to us and here it is in the collection along with a copy of the guidebook which includes a letter of explanation/apology from another Mountain Guide, Dave (Cubby) Cuthbertson who had written a rather poor review of the guidebook in a climbing magazine. Wonky all round.