Stubai Aschenbrenner ice axe

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Stubai Aschenbrenner ice axe
Photo from March/April 1988 ‘Mountain’ magazine No 120
Cutting steps with a wooden axe.
Ad from The Climber Feb 1964
Description
‘Stubai’ Aschenbrenner ice axe, steel head, wooden shaft, serrated pick, adze. Leather cover for head of axe, in two parts fastened with a metal buckle, split at end seam. Pointed spike on ferrule in red rubber protector.
Inscription description
Stubai logo on pick and “ORIGINAL ASCHENBRENNER GES.GESCH, MADE IN AUSTRIA” Ferrule stamped with “J & W Ltd LONDON, WC1” Also initials “ASJ” carved into shaft.
Acquisition Method:
Donated by Mick Tighe
Number of Objects:
3
Related Items:
Provenance:
Peter Aschenbrenner was an Austrian Mountain Guide (1902-1998) who was somewhat controversially involved in early expeditions to climb Nanga Parbat in the Himalaya. The German led – and Hitler backed – expedition of 1934 ended in disaster when several Sherpas perished, the result being that Aschenbrenner and fellow expedition member Schneider were hauled before a ‘court of honour’ for ‘abandonment’ of Sherpas and were excluded from further expeditions to Nanga Parbat. This was later rescinded and he was back in 1953 taking over the role of expedition leader from Karl Harrligkoffer. On this occasion, Herman Buhl made the summit alone, to claim the first ascent and though the expedition had technically been a success there was much acrimony.

Aschenbrenner left behind a much less controversial legacy in the form of an ice axe which he developed in the early 1930s and got the Stubai company to manufacture for him. These axes became almost universal in the mountains from the mid 1930s right up to the 1960s when metal and alloy shafted tools began to take over. There were many variations and it seems that some were custom made. Batches were made for German mountain troops during WWII and thousands were exported to the UK, mostly just after WWII, many of which have found their way into our collection.

Not sure who ‘ASJ’ was, his/her initials are carved on the shaft, but we think J&W refers to Jackson and Warr who were mountaineering folk back in the 1950s and 60s.

Object Production
Production Place:
Austria
Materials:
Steel, wood, leather, rubber
Maker:
Stubai
Colour:
Grey, brown, red
Dimensions:
34.8 (w) x 98.2 (l) x 7.3 (d) cm
Object Condition:
Fair, rusty metalwork, split seam
Condition Date Check:
21/11/2007
Administration
Accession Number:
009.2007.1
Creator:
Maxine Willett
Accession Date:
21/11/2007
ID:
1
Category:
Location
Location:
Bohuntin
Current Location
Rules:
Spectrum : UK Museum documentation standard, V.3.1 2007
Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
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